19th century
Finely embroidered with eight roundels, each enclosing various auspicious motifs including peony blossoms, peaches, melons and butterflies, amidst floral sprays and butterflies, all reserved on a dark blue ground and above the terrestrial diagram with lishui stripe at the hem, fur-lined.
187.5cm (73 3/4in) wide.
Footnotes
十九世紀 石青地打籽綉團花紋皮吉服褂
The present lot is a jifu gua (吉服褂), a semi-formal surcoat worn over the jifu robe, prescribed for women of the Manchu nobility. According to The Illustrated Regulations for Ceremonial Paraphernalia of the Present Dynasty (皇朝禮器圖式), compiled by the Imperial order of the Qianlong Emperor and completed in 1759, the wives of State-pacifying Dukes (鎮國公), State-assisting Dukes (輔國公), and Commoner Dukes (民公), as well as the wives of officials of the seventh rank and above, were prescribed jifu gua in blue embroidered with eight floral roundels, as exemplified by the present lot.
See a related midnight-blue-ground silk embroidered 'butterfly and double-gourd' surcoat, early 19th century, which was sold at Bonhams London, 2 November 2021, lot 278.